Hey Are those Palmerston local Jungles ?


Thanks for the inquiry! Mine are not Palmerston locale carpets, however. Palmerstons usually have a more striped pattern. I don’t believe mine are a certain locale, and there is a high amount of variability in patter, tipping, and intensity of color in wild jungles. If I had to take a guess I would say mine are closest to the Tully locale.

Thanks again, and have a great day!


» Asked by americanprideusa

Hello all!
I just got back from my trip to the east coast last night, so bring on the inquiries! ;)
Updates on hatchlings coming soon!

SOLD - Thanks Chris!

I am honored to provide Chris with his first Carpet Python, and am thrilled she is going to such a good home!

I still have 6.3 (6 males, 3 females) available. They are almost 3 months old and feeding on f/t hopper mice/rat pups. Let me know if you have any questions!


Hi, yeah, I'm getting a ball python! And a few books on them for christmas (my birthdays in Feb and I'm getting everything I need in terms of set up off mum's family :) What can I do if it goes on a feeding strike but husbandry is correct?

That’s awesome, and it sounds like you’re doing all the necessary research and prep work. Just a tip for researching - take all suggestions into consideration and do what works best in your situation (provided it works for the animal), and remember it is not an exact science :)

As far as finicky eaters go, always make sure the rodent is warm enough, but not cooked. Then, the best thing to try first is feeding after the lights go off. They are nocturnal predators after all, so most of the time, waiting an hour or so after dark will switch them into predator mode.

Other tricks you can do are feeding in a separate and dark container, overhauling their cage/re-decorating, different size/types of food items, “braining”, or any combination of the above. Live food should be offered as a last resort and with caution/supervision - if a BP gets injured they will often shy away from food for the next few months.

Sometimes BPs will simply refuse any and all food for 6 months or more, especially if they are sexually mature/breeding. Just keep an eye on their overall body tone and weight, and they will usually transition out of it just fine. Going through seasonal changes with light cycles and temps can sometimes help as well.

Hope this helps, and thanks for the question!


» Asked by devils-sonata

Do you have any Mojaves for sale still?

Hello :)
Thanks for the inquiry! The two Mojaves I have available for sale are pending sale, and seeing as they hatched late - and consequently small - they still need to get a few more meals in them before I have them up to a comfortable weight.

However, I can add you as an interested party in case either falls through.
I also have a newly hatched Spotnose Het Albino, and a clutch from Cinnamon-Spotnose, Enchi x Normal due to hatch next month, and ready-to-ship Jungle Carpet Pythons.

Thanks again, and please let me know of you have any other questions.


» Asked by fatefell-short-thistime

I think my dad's getting me a snake for my birthday! :)

Hi there!
That is very exciting! Do you know what type of snake you’re getting? Is there a species you are hoping for?
If you have any questions about husbandry, behavior, or feeding techniques, give me a shout!

» Asked by devils-sonata

I apologize in advance for the lack of activity/photos this weekend, as I am out of town. However, I still have access to internet, so questions or inquiries are still appreciated and will be answered as soon as possible. Have a great weekend everyone!

I'd like to get a snake of some kind, but I have two cats. Is there a way to keep both safely or should I stick with one or the other?


Thanks for writing in! Excellent question too.

It is definitely possible to keep snakes and cats - I have both myself. The key is to have a secure cage. In most cases - seeing as snakes are escape artists - if the snake can’t get out, a cat can’t get in.

In the case of my cat, after watching the snakes slowly move around in their cages for a few days, and realizing they were blocked by glass, she quickly lost interest. This is variable from cat to cat, however. So, to be extra safe, putting a locking mechanism (padlock, display case locks, etc.) provides extra security. Many sliding, locking-lid tanks, and some open-front tanks have a place to secure a small padlock, and display case locks can be used for sliding doors.

Something else you have to keep in mind is all the electrical wiring that goes along with snake/reptile cages. If you know your cat likes to chew on objects (especially new ones), you want to make the wiring hidden or inaccessible. Or, you can simply block off the room your snake is in, so the cat can’t get in the room (that’s what I do).

Finally, when getting the snake out of its cage, you need to visually monitor both the snake and the cats, or keep them completely separate. It’s never a good idea to let your snake “roam free” (escape potential), especially if your cat decides it looks like a tasty treat or fun toy.

It certainly can be done, and I know many people who keep both.

I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any other questions. :)

Thanks again,


» Asked by Anonymous

Hello :)

I can’t believe there are over 600 of you wonderful people interested in my life with snakes! Thank you for following, and don’t hesitate to ask me any questions you might have.

Have a great day!


Here is the lone hatchling from my Twilight, Enchi x Albino pairing. Looks like a Spotnose - definitely has a cool head pattern! This morph is identified by the head print and deep, flawless black coloring, which persists as the snake grows. Pairing two Spotnose BPs together will result in a Powerball (WAY cool looking)! I’ll keep you all updated on how this one does.
Oh, and I finally got the last Mojave hatchling eating :D